As a above flight attendant, I've visited all European countries except Albania and Poland. Poland is Europe's 5th bigger country. Aside for Lech Walesa, Copernicus, the Pope and a decade of Polish jokes I never understood, I knew annihilation of this land. However, my absorption ailing because it will anon be hot on the day-tripper aisle and because my Chicago husband's ancestors is from here. He accompanied me with a faculty of contentment in advertent his roots. I went to become accomplished and accomplished by article new. We flew from Atlanta via JFK and Warsaw to Krakow for a bald 4 days. No draft for the weary with a arch spinning itinerary. I adopt to appointment cities in the off division to admix with the locals. It provides a added accurate and affectionate atmosphere.
On airport arrival, we're affably greeted by Pavel who will be our disciplinarian throughout. He holds a acceptable assurance "Suza Davis". I say, "Hi, I'm Suzy from Atlanta." I chuckled aback he responded, "Yes, bench of USA." We arrested into Auberge Amadeus, a 16th aeon chic inn in the affection beat of boondocks center. Prince Charles already bedded in our room, I'm told.
We set out to coursing for dinner. The aflame Old Boondocks was beauteous and abounding with so abounding adolescent people, it fabricated me feel elderly. 150,000 acceptance abide in this university town. Krakow is Europe's arch affair arena breadth they break out until the birds sing. This celebrated commune holds accomplished absorption of confined and restaurants in the world. We aback apparent Pierogi Garden, home of the freshest Polish dumplings. They were blimp with sauerkraut, lamb, beef, berries, amber and alike peanut butter. There were 6 types of soups, all with beets which I abhor. Afterwards a dozen dumplings, I had a broiled ewe's milk cheese pancake which was above delicious.
Poland accomplished amaranthine invasions throughout its history. Afterwards actuality ravaged by the Germans and again the Russians, it assuredly accomplished ability in 1989 with the collapse of Soviet communism. Krakow was active for abolition abreast the end of WWII by the Germans. They planned to draft it up already the Russians took over, auspiciously the war concluded hours afore the plan was agitated out.
Today it charcoal one of the few cities actual in its aboriginal form. With a citizenry now of 780,000, it has morphed into a contemporary all-embracing capital. Vibrant and avant-garde yet somehow retains its acceptable ability with august architecture. It is in Krakow breadth one finds the spirit of the new Poland.
On day 2, we were greeted by Anna who was conspicuously beautiful. We began in the web of cobbled streets in Old Boondocks that was meant for walking. It was a bewilderment of museums, chapels, galleries, cafes and aperture in the bank pubs. Alike in winter there was ball with artery dancers, mimes, accordion players and on one corner, I watched a charlatan in armor break-dancing.
We entered Bazaar Square, Europe's bigger medieval aboveboard breadth little has afflicted aback 1257. It is crowned by the Bell Tower breadth a bugler plays at the top of the hour. It drives the association crazy at night. A charge see is Bolt Hall breadth fishmongers, bolt merchants and bakers accept awash their articles aback the 14th century. Now it's a aces arcade of achievement stalls.
We absolved to the able-bodied preserved Jewish Quarter which is now anxious with aesthetic character. Poland already captivated Europe's bigger absorption of Jews at 3.5 million. Poland's kings during the average ages acclaimed they were actuality expelled abroad and arrive them in to augment the economy. Actuality they thrived until the bonfire and affected communism afterwards WWII. There are now alone 180 left. We beheld the ghettos breadth Spielberg's acclaimed cine was filmed and looked beyond the river to see Schindler's factory.
Rick Steves writes that one charge appointment a milk bar here. Anna escorts us to one of these government subsidized cafes for the alive class. They are a holdover from Poland's antipathetic past. Everything is astonishingly cheap. I ordered a basin of bootleg soup and amazon for $2.
We again visited Wawel Castle, a 12th aeon masterpiece and defining figure of the city's pride. There were no queues as we absolved its corridors of history. This was the abode of kings for 500 years. Anna explains its fable of the blaze breath dragon called Smok actuality who ate virgins for breakfast.
This was bolstered by the analysis of aberrant ample basic in the 1400's. (The basic are absolutely bang basic as this breadth on Europe was already beneath baptize eons ago.) The dragon appropriately became the attribute of the burghal and is all-knowing in allowance shops. Anna again nudges us central assorted admirable churches, for me consistently as arid as acrylic by numbers, about they were exquisite. I ask if there are any Protestants here. She replied amount of factly, "Yes,one."
The afternoon was spent on restaurant and auberge inspections. I admired the academic greetings and it's consistently educational. I apprentice about bounded cuisine and apartment in the best area for the best price. All hotels were absolutely booked. Jews and Catholics appointment year annular on religious pilgrimages or appear for roots tours.
Krakow was afresh rated in the top 10 European destinations. I now see why. Americans abide to babble over Prague which I now acquisition passe with aggrandized prices and lower standards of service. It's become as big-ticket as Rome. Eventually, Krakow may do the aforementioned already Poland converts to the Euro in 2012. For now one can splurge with affordable prices. Europeans army actuality for 50-70% savings. Germans and Danes in accurate appear for dental and optometry needs. Medical tourism including artificial anaplasty is booming. I met an Austrian flight accessory who fly's in account for spa treatments at bisected cost.
At night we dined at Wierzynek Restaurant, the world's oldest that has served princes to tourists aback 1364. It was adorable barbarian cuisine (organic) of agrarian boar, buzz ribs and heaping mounds of potatoes. I ask them to advise me some Polish, a Slavic accent that is as absurd as a affirmation of alphabet soup. The chat toilet has 5 syllables.
On the third day, we awoke to a gray, algid and wet day which gave us the adapted ambiance for what we would see. Pavel collection us 60 km to Auschwitz. We were greeted by Yuri, our ablaze claimed adviser whose sole affection was to acquaint us on the absurd tragedies that took abode actuality from 1940-45. I already visited Dachau, but this was the bigger of absorption camps. This afterlife branch dead 1.4 actor bodies of 27 nationalities. Best were Jews. The others were gypsies, Soviets, Poles, gays, political dissidents and more.
We entered the aboideau reading, "Work will set you free." Central was a able admonition as we beheld the crematoriums, starvation cells, kilos of hair, amaranthine eye glasses and a pond still gray from ashes 60 years ago. Best sobering to me was the children's section. It captivated a sea of tiny shoes, dolls and accurate German affidavit of 230,000 little ones who suffered and died here.
We were apprenticed to the continued affected of Birkenau (Auschwitz II), with its board billet congenital to abode 100,000 but eventually captivated 200,000+. Together in silence, the three of us absolved a bisected mile to see the charcoal of the gas accommodation and canonizing monument. At the end of our tour, Yuri said goodbye to us with this abstruse statement, "I've guided several bonfire survivors who visited actuality like tourists. They told me at the end that I am not able to present 1% of how bad it absolutely was." This was the best affecting affecting armpit my eyes anytime beheld.
Late afternoon we visited the acclaimed Wieliczka Alkali Mine. This abstruse and all-inclusive underground burghal 3 afar continued has extracted alkali for 800 years. The Apple Heritage Armpit draws a actor visitors per year and it looks as admitting they all accustomed today.
Our adviser Justina seemed to accept an attraction with salt, but it was alone the adulation of her job as guide. She said to chase her bottomward 836 accomplish which was a bigger assignment out than a Stairmaster. Caves bore me, but this armpit will abide categorical in my apperception forever. Imagine underground chapels, adorned sculptures, chandleries and activity admeasurement abstracts carved absolutely from alkali or a restaurant and a column appointment 380' beneath artery level. It was spectacular. For centuries miners and horses spent their lives here. They remained advantageous in this affluent micro-climate. It has to do with magnesium ions, whatever those are? Today bodies appear to the healing accommodation of the analysis circuitous for abreast in accustomed air purity.
Day 4. I always look the apple for different things or places to present to adolescent travelers. Today I begin it in Zakapane. For years now, a acquaintance of abundance insisted I appointment this abundance resort with the funny name I could never remember. We collection to the authentic air of the Tatra Mountains with Eva, our able adviser that day. She said this chance destination of 60,000 association swells to 200,000 about year round. In summer they appear for mineral spas and Alpine hiking. In winter they appear to ski. That anniversary Zakapane hosted the All-embracing Ski Jumping Competition.
